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Whether the country hunted is close to a road or several days hiking distant, knowing how to get into, around, and out of that country makes a big difference in the quality of the hunt, in an emergency can be lifesaving. I spend quite a bit of time between my old paper topos, Google Maps, maps offered by the Forest Service or Bureau of Land Management, and National geographic where they are available.

Going into roadless tracts of country, where most other hunters are not found, and returning requires a little navigational knowledge. I always start with the Forest Service or BLM (Bureau of Land Management), or a National Geographic map. Some forest Service maps show topography, and the BLM maps generally do as well; however, the scales are generally really big and only the main topographical features are discernable. With these two options in particular, the addition of a 7.5-minute topo map adds much needed detail. On the NatGeo maps, the focus is upon a specific area of interest, so they generally include the road and trail numbers, they still aren’t as precise as a 7.5 minute map, but are an asset when getting into and out of country.

My next piece is a GPS, Delorme and Garmin are both making good units that work well and are easy to use. I prefer units that show the topography, which speeds the navigation process. There are several ways to input data, most are preset to degrees, minutes, seconds, but UTMs which were developed for military use, are easier to use and transfer points between the unit and the map. The only downside to UTMs is that most maps only have notations for UTMs, and the user has to connect the dots and place the grid on their own map.

The New eTrex 30 from Garmin goes one step further, by ranging a desired point (like a big buck or bull laying in his day bed) and pointing the GPS at him, the unit actually logs that point. This means that a roundabout stalk is more doable than ever, and on a bigger scheme. it also has the ability to send map data to another GPS and share points with your hunting partner.

The other piece I like to add into the equation is a compass. While many among us are starting to think of them as archaic, they offer unbelievable precision, require no batteries, and when used right, they can always tell you precisely where you are. There are tons of books on map and compass work, and most are good resources to get you started off right.

Shelter Part 3 – the Sleep System

The sleep system, sleeping pad and bag play a big role in the day-to-day success of a backcountry trip. The body requires food, water, and rest to function at its peak. Rest is the most often overlooked, but a good night’s sleep makes it far easier to push hard through the days. There are several routes to take in both pads and bags.

Offerings for good sleeping bags run into three basic shapes: square toe, semi square toe, and mummy. Square toes are good for base camp bags, but there are only a handful of legit backcountry offerings in this shape, and they are generally for warm weather. The reason for this is the amount of material and insulation required to make a bag of this shape function- so they tend to weigh more than the other shapes. Semi square toe bags are hybrids that offer a little more room in the foot box for restless sleepers or big guys. Mummy bags tend to offer the lightest weight, and every real backcountry sleeping bag maker makes a pile of them in temperature ranges from arctic cold to around 40 degrees.

The temperature rating is important to pay attention to, as does how the temperature rating is established. I see most people making their initial sleeping bag purchases in the 0-20 degree range, which may not be the right choice. Match the temperature rating of the bag to the coldest temperature you can expect where you are going, and remember, the addition of a down sweater and down booties can make a bag comfortable to temperatures lower than the bag is rated. For most early season hunts a 32 to 35 degree bag is about perfect, and they can be found in the one-pound range pretty easily. As fall progresses towards late season hunts, step to a bag in the 0-20 degree range.

While we are talking about temperatures, it is crucial to know that those ratings are established with a closed cell foam pad between the bag and the ground. When in a bag, the insulation on the bottom is compressed, and doesn’t really offer any help fighting the cold; so a pad must be used.

There are quite a few pad offerings out there, from manual inflatables, down filled, to self-inflating. Most regular inflatable pads offer little insulation, but lots of comfort, the shining star in this croud is the ThermaRest Neo Air, which offers a little insulation, 2.5 inches of padding, and sub 16 ounce weights on most models. This unit is great for most trips, but when the mercury falls on those colder weather hunts, the new Neo Air All Season or ProLite plus, also from Thermarest or aan insulation filled pad like those offered from Big Agnes offer more insulation and comparable comfort, just with the addition of a little weight. (Extremely little with the All Season Neo)

The temperature rating of the bag itself can be altered with the type of pad used, the lower the R-value of the pad, the cooler the bag will sleep, and the more insulated the pad, the closer it gets to its actual rating.

On to construction…There are a variety of synthetic fillers out there and different qualities of down. Both have their place, and should be matched to the circumstances you expect. Synthetic, while not as compressible as down, insulates when wet. If you happen to be in the northwest, or just expect lost of moisture then synthetic filled bags are the route to take. If the weather is sans moisture, then down is a great option- nothing is as light or packable - but when wet, it doesn’t function.

I really like the bags from Wiggy’s and Western Mountaineering, first because they are well made, and second because they both have a no bs policy, they provide the facts, without smoke and mirrors. Wiggy’s bags are synthetic only, and Western Mountaineering down only. The Synthetic filled Wiggy’s bag weighs about twice the Western Mountaineering down, but when you get in the tent soaking wet and cold, the Wiggy’s bag can stave of hypothermia. Western also addresses the moisture issue with their GWS (Gore Wind Stopper) series, which are wrapped in the tough, wind and water resistant material (it’s nearly water-proof).

There is no substitute for a high quality sleep system that matches the environment you are in. This is primarily because the body and mind rely on food, water, and rest to recuperate from the effort that backcountry hunting requires. Many times, full nutrition and light-weight don’t cohabitate, or we simply don’t manage to pack enough. By adding a good night’s rest to the equation, it is easier to hunt harder, longer – which tends to produce more results.

Shelter Part II, Tents and Bivys.

There are quite a few options out there for good backcountry shelter, from the ultra compact bivy bag, to multiple person shelters, and some nice options in between. I like to have space to get my gear in order or read a map in when the weather is bad. Accordingly I find Bivys a hard option to justify. There is simply no extra room to get dressed, read, or sort through gear- plus they aren’t all that light when compared to other options (more about that later). Comparable weight and volume can be reached with floorless shelters, which provide sufficient room to sit up and move around a bit, helping to stave of claustrophobia. Then we move into the Tent category, and there are countless options. For most of the year, three season tents are the way to fly, they are light and offer sufficient protection from the elements. But, when it comes to serious weather, with high winds and big snow, a four season tent is the route to take. They definitely weigh more, but they are a s bombproof as a portable shelter gets.

Starting with bivys, there are some good options. I think they serve best when used as a just in case while trying to keep pack weigh and volume down. I really like Outdoor Research gear, and the Aurora Bivy weighs 22 ounces, and is made with good old Gore Tex, so it is tough and can be counted on when the weather turns south. The deterrent to this unit is that it sits right on you, and there are a couple good solutions to this problem. The first two also from OR, the Advanced and Alpine Bivy, and weigh weigh over 2 pounds, the third is from The North Face – the Asylum Bivy. Weighing 1lb. 10 ounces. This option is as close to a tent as a bivy gets. While it doesn’t have the Gore Tex the other units offer, it will function flawlessly in most of those earlier season ventures where extreme weather isn’t the norm.

I have been using floorless shelters now for three seasons, they offer volumes of room and can be pitched with sticks or trekking poles in lieu of carrying tent poles. This substitution or dual purposing of gear really sheds weight. Add in a floor of tyvek and a shelter right around two pounds is the result. I have used both Kifaru and GoLite versions. Kifaru’s Para Tipi is simply enormous, offering more room than I could use. The GoLite I carry is the ShangriLa2, it is reminiscent to the pup tent, and offers sufficient room for two full-grown adults and most of their gear. I have pitched it suspended from trees to work as a tarp, or fairly close to the ground to fend off the wind. A bathtub style floor is available, and would be a crucial addition for high wind or heavy rain. These shelters tend to leave a couple inches of space between the shelter and the ground, which is why I like it so much for warm weather. This style shelter is also killer in the snow, MSR makes a version called the TwinSisters with a snow skirt that creates a sealed envelope, and leans more toward a four season shelter than a three- but it’s not as easy to do right as a four or three season set up.

If you are a die-hard tenter, recognizing the conditions will help in the tent selection. Regardless of the shape, make sure that the tent is at least a three-season offering, and a four-season unit if high winds, snow or extended periods of inclement weather are likely. For places like Alaska, the Yukon, or B.C. where weather reports tend to be more speculation than science, take a four-season tent - the extra weight could be a literal lifesaver. If the weather looks to be fairly warm, and stabile, the three season shelter will generally suffice, and offers some weight savings when compared to a four season unit.

For the three-season set up, I really like the NEMO Nano Elite it weighs a mere 2 lbs. 7 oz. which was unnatainable just a few years ago for conventional tents. When paired with another person, the weight is close to 20 oz. per packer – not bad at all. When the conditions are rough and a tent is the only protection that can be found there are some good four season rigs to look at. I like the MSR Dragon Tail weighing 4 lbs. 12 oz. it’s pretty light in the scheme of four season tents. While this set up is a single wall, which tends to cause condensation problems, this unit is vented to address the issue – making it a killer light weight all conditions tent. Another option from Nemo is the Tenshi, at only 4 lbs. 6 oz. I really like these units because they offer the protection needed for severe, alpine conditions, without the 7 plus pound weight normally found in 4 season tents. Hilleberg also makes some really hardy tents, particularly the Nallo 2 weighing a scant 4 lbs. 3 oz. These shelters offer all season performance in weights commonly found in 3 season tents. This does mean a little additional expense, but they pay for themselves the first time bad weather rears its head in the backcountry.

The next installation will deal with the sleep system. It’s a place where major weight and volume can be cut, and some new, exciting technology is coming into the market at a lightning pace. As always, if you have questions or need advice on what to use in the backcountry, send me a note and I will do everything I can to lend a hand.

Layering for the Backcountry Hunter

Starting in with the clothing, there are five categories; underwear and socks, base layers, outerwear, insulation, and shells. As far as socks and underwear are concerned, as I said a couple days ago, the use of merino wool is crucial as it manages moisture in both liquid and gas states well and insulates when wet. Merino wool, which is as soft as cotton, lasts ages, and doesn’t hold odors like synthetics do. I use it for base layers and outerwear as often as possible.

I wear lightweight base layers starting in late August or early September, when the mornings are cool and the days hot, then transition to heavier weight garments as the fall progresses. When the weather gets really cold, I will even layer my base layers to provide the necessary insulation. The pieces that I have had the best success with are Ice Breaker 150 for early season, 260 for the cold late season hunts, and double layer them with 150 then 260 weight to fight off extreme cold

While I still have a closet full of Cabela’s outfitter camo, which are cost effective synthetic outerwear and last eons, the clothes are cut like regular old camos and don’t move as well as backcountry or mountaineering attire. There are some new entrants into the field that address this concern and do it with good camo patterns, Kuiu is making some cool patterns with the right fit and finish that are reasonably priced. Kuiu is the second evolution from the guy that brought you Sitka gear, which sold to Gore. Kuiu offers a good understanding of the way that gear needs to function, sells directly to the consumer, and with its small flexible platform can adjust to the needs of the consumer really quickly. Sitka, on the other hand, is now owned by a huge player in the industry and has some incredible resources to work with, either route offers good gear from what I have seen, and both deserve some attention.

Then comes insulation- an element that varies from season to season, and with specific conditions. These garments are anything from a light merino sweater, like those offered from Firstlite or Ice Breaker, to down sweaters from Western Mountaineering, to synthetic filled jackets from Kuiu or Mountain Hardwear. For wet conditions, synthetic fills or wool is the safest bet. While they may not dry out in the field and tend to weight a little more, they still keep the wearer warm, down on the other hand withers to nothing when wet - offering nothing for warmth until it is dried and the down has regained its loft. In the southwest, I have always carried a Western Mountaineering’s Flash or Flash XR. The XR is made with a DWR (durable water repellant) finished fabric that does a good job of keeping light rain at bay, the regular flash on the other hand is uber light, around 9 ounces. The regular flash, compresses a little better, and works well in weather from a cool autumn morning into the low teens for sufficient warmth when I’m glassing- in fact I think it is a little warmer. The key to selecting a good insulation layer is by making it appropriate for the specific situation at hand, I find down to be very dynamic, working well over a broad range of conditions, so I tend to bring my flash jacket even in the early season to fend off the early morning chill.

Shells are the pieces that do the actual weather resistance, and they are undergoing a revolution right now. While I have worn shells from The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and even Gore prototypes, they have all been a little loud, and fit a little weird, no more though. The technology has finally begun to reach the market that allows garments to be waterproof and stretch, so the new generation of shells moves like a soft-shell while protecting like a hard shell. There are still some tradeoffs between the stretch and conventional hard-shell versions, but the mere presence of an alternative is pretty exciting. The primary function most people see for these pieces is rain and snow protection, but they are useful under a broad range of circumstances. The breathability of the membranes on the market now allow the wearer to use them as stand alone pieces topping of their outerwear. When zipped up all the way-including the pit zips-the membrane is allowed to work and excess heat and water vapor are forced out of the shell, this is particularly useful when hiking in to a glassing point. They offer just the right amount of warmth, without letting the wearer overheat. When the glassing point is reached, simply add the down jacket or merino sweater for sustained warmth in the lower activity glassing. A good shell fends off wind and rain, moves well with the wearer and is slim enough to allow easy movement, including shooting.

I also include gators in the shell category, which go over the pants and boot tops and manage to protect the lower leg from brush, prevent the movement of morning dew, rain, or snow from entering the pant legs and being wicked into the boots. While there are several options out there, I find myself always using and recommending Outdoor Research (OR) Crocodiles or Expedition Crocodiles- both with Gore-Tex, my current pair looks pretty ragged after over four years of use, but they offer up no reason for replacement- that’s why they stay out of storage and get used everywhere from late season archery backpack hunts, running hounds in the snow, to clearing up the driveway after an over night flurry. For early season training and scouting, trail gators are great, they pair well with trail runners and keep rocks and burrs out of the shoe and socks and keep the laces under control.

Up next, we will cover tents and bivvys for backcountry hunting. There are more options than most would think, so I will address the pros and cons of each option, and some of the pieces that I have come to appreciate over the years.