What I call a tripod here is actually a combination of three elements: tripod legs, a tripod head, and a binocular adaptor. The kind of tripod legs, head and adaptor you set up with will likely affect your success.
Starting with the adapter, you need a way to mount optics as rigidly as possible to the tripod head to prevent any play when the face comes into contact with the binoculars – little things like this will drive you nuts when you spend significant time behind the glasses – and it’s a nice bonus when your expensive binoculars don’t topple off the tripod unannounced.
The tripod head – the piece that facilitates clean, fluid movement is an investment, it should be rugged in order to deal with the hunting environment while being precise enough to enable repeatable movements. Having fluid movements is key; jerky stop-and-go movements will actually make you seasick, so spend an extra hundred bucks to ensure your next few years of glassing will be productive and enjoyable.
Tripod legs come in a wide array of weights and sizes and all offer their own strengths and weaknesses. Lightweight tripods sacrifice the stability and durability that is inherent with heavier tripods. There is a balance to be pursued here, as weight goes up, features tend to increase. The key tripod features that should be sought are the ability to change heads and legs that can be adjusted to multiple angles, most quality tripods offering these features, and the lighter units that meet these requirements are generally great for hunting. Having the ability to change heads is more of a screening feature than one that deals with actual function, better tripods are generally sold as legs alone so the user may pick a head that caters to their specific need where tripods with fixed heads are typically a price pointed units for a beginning user. Adjustable leg angles are key. The ability to sit under the tripod as apposed to behind it ensures long-term comfort and comfort translates into more effective glassing times and the ability to glass longer, both of which produce more game. Next, the tripod needs to be tall enough to at least sit under it comfortably, taller tripods are convenient for glassing near the truck or in tall brush but additional height translates to additional weight; the first tripod you purchase needs to be one that you are willing to carry. The big tripod is typically the second purchase, while glassing from a standing position decreases the stability inherent with seated glassing, in some cases tall brush dictates you either have to stand, or get really creative in finding a glassing spot.
When you actually find yourself in and optics shop, or on the phone with them these few pieces will allow you to sort out the wide array of tripods into the few units that really perform in a hunting atmosphere. Now you can do yourself a favor, and shorten the search as there are two outfits that will be able to really dial you in; The Outdoorsmans, www.outdoorsmans.com has been in the game for a long time and is a specialty retailer dealing with all the goodies that pertain to optics hunting, I have been using their tripod for over seven years and it's been a constant companion. Unidaptor, 928-635-5316, owned by Jim White is also a great resource, Jim sells a wide array of optics and adapters that will help get you out on the right foot when it comes to tripod glassing, I have been using Jim's pan head for as long as I have had my Outdoorsmans tripod, and it to has been a reliable companion on many hunts. On the next post we will be discussing the tempo of game movements and the rate at which we should glass to maximize the results.
